#BehindTheBatik: A Deep Dive

Unravelling Bleeds, Residues, and Colour Quirks

 

Previously, we scratched the surface on three of the most common questions we hear from our customers — from battling stubborn wax stains to the unique colour variations that make each piece one-of-a-kind.

 

Today, we take a deeper dive into these issues that the batik industry experiences as a collective. As a batik fashion label ourselves, we're intimately acquainted with the hurdles that come with preserving this timeless art form. Let's delve right into the heart of these “oddities” inherent to batik, taking a peek behind the curtains to unveil the artistry and meticulous effort poured into our artisans’ work!

 

Batik-making involves a process called “wax-resist”, a technique that uses wax to craft intricate patterns on fabric. 

 

Artists dip stamps into hot, melted wax on stamps to create elaborate designs on cloth. As the wax cools and sets, the fabric takes a dip (or a few) into vibrant dye baths. The cooled wax then acts as a barrier, resisting colour from seeping into the material that it covers, unveiling exquisite patterns and designs when removed.

How many variables did you spot? (Hint: Wax, Dye, Fabric!)

 

With that in mind, here’s a glimpse into the basics of the batik-making process. Given its extremely labour-intensive nature, it understandably leads to occasional instances of artistic “imperfections”!

 

These include:

1. Wax Residue
   
   
   
   
   
   
   After the dyeing magic, it's time for the grand reveal!... But surprise, sometimes beautiful batik fabrics can sport excess wax residues, and getting rid of those often isn't as simple as flicking a switch. Rather, it requires a steamy session with either an iron or boiling water to melt the wax.
   
   

   Why Does This Happen? 
   
   

 

1. Wash It! Some waxes in Batik are water-soluble, so a warm bath with a mild detergent can be just the ticket for wax residues. With that said, stubborn stains may require repeat performances, and sometimes, there are chances of them not quite completely vanishing.
   
   
2. Agitate It! Give your fabric a gentle shake in the water to coax those pesky wax bits out of hiding. Treat it like you would a baby — soft nudges, not vigorous prods.
   
   
3. Rub and Scrub It! Tender rubbing in the affected areas works wonders to further aid in removing the residue.
   

 

2. Bleeds

Two kinds of bleeds can throw a wrench in your batik masterpiece: Colour Bleeds, and Wax Bleeds.

COLOUR BLEEDS:

In multi-coloured batiks, there are moments when colours decide to mix and mingle, leading to unintended colour clashes or stains.

Why Does This Happen? 

• Excessive Dye Saturation: A common reason behind colour bleeds is when too much dye is applied to the fabric, or if the fabric soaks for too long — it's like saturating a sponge beyond its capacity, leading to pesky bleedings into adjacent areas, or worse, onto unsuspecting laundry in the wash.
• The Cooling-Off Phase: Again, heat could be the enemy. Sometimes, rushing to rinse off the dye while the fabrics are still steaming hot can result in bleeds — and we all know the importance of a cooldown (just like post-workout)!
  
  
• Insufficient Wax Coverage: The wax resist applied to outline different colour areas just didn’t quite do its job properly, leaving certain areas vulnerable to dye penetration. If there are gaps or inconsistencies in the wax resist, dyes from one area may sneakily bleed into neighbouring areas during the dyeing process.
  
  
• Wax Cracking: Ah, the wisecracks of wax! These happen when the wax decides to break during the dyeing process, resulting in blurry lines or inconsistent patterns (quite like the above sitch). It’s not unusual for this to happen; in fact, it’s a classic and characteristic effect of batik called (surprise!) “crackle”. These can be caused by temperature fluctuations, using overly brittle wax (looking at you, paraffin*), or being a little too rough with the fabric while the wax is still setting.

 

Crackle Effect. Credit: Hiromi Paper

FUN FACT: Not all wax cracks are quiet accidents; artists sometimes deliberately “maximise” the crackle effect by freezing and crumpling cloth. Some others seek to avoid introducing these scattered lines… It’s just a matter of style and preference!

* The traditional recipe for batik wax typically consists of a 60:40 ratio of beeswax to paraffin.

 

WAX BLEEDS:

We are familiar with colour bleeds, but how about wax bleeds? While colour bleeds seep where they shouldn’t and cause stains, wax bleeds do the opposite — preventing dye from going where it should. In other words, the wax lines that were meant to resist dye end up throwing a party in the dyed areas instead, creating smudges or wonky lines.


Why Does This Happen? 

• Excessive Heat: As mentioned earlier, if the wax gets too hot during the waxing or dyeing process, or if it's left to simmer for too long, it can melt and spread beyond the intended resist lines, leading to unwanted bleeding.
  
  

An Ending Note:

Before diving into a cleaning frenzy, give a small, inconspicuous area a test run (just like how you’d patch-test new skincare products) to avoid damaging the fabric! Always refer to the batik care cards tucked into every YeoMama Batik purchase, or find more information here.